Molise is probably Italy’s least well-known region. Nestling between Abruzzo, Puglia and Campania, people pass through Molise when travelling north-south or vice versa, but few stop there. The general opinion is that Molise has little or nothing to offer to visitors.
The three big cities, Isernia, Termoli and Campobasso, are never cited in art history or travel books. But is it really true? I don’t think so. Molise, Italy’s second smallest region, is a little jewel case full of treasures. Many of the people that visit Molise stop on the coast, but the interior is more interesting, maybe less lively, but as yet undiscovered.
Let us travel from the coast to the interior of Molise, on a journey of discovery. Leaving the coast, the road runs along the Trigno Valley. This river, which flows into the Adriatic near the city of Vasto, marks the boundary between Abruzzo and Molise. The road runs parallel to the bottom of the valley, leading to Isernia. This part of the region is called Upper Molise and is the most beautiful part of the country.
Three of the best towns to visit
Trivento: The road then leads to Trivento, a small town dominating the whole Trigno valley. Founded by the Romans, the town was a stronghold against Saracen invasions in the Middle Ages. The road winds up and up until it reaches the old town. Here, a long flight of steps leads to the main square.
We finally found the Cathedral, with its 6th-century crypt built on the ruins of a temple to Jove and the priest waited for us and took us for a tourist trip around the city. He told us about its foundation in Roman times and the fact that Octavian Augustus’ daughter was imprisoned here.
Then Don Mimì (the priest), invited us into his office and showed us several interesting articles and ancient Roman stones. The city is a kind of open-air museum. Walking through the streets of the centre, you can easily spot Roman and medieval memorial plaques on the walls of the houses.
Agnone: Agnone is the home of Italy most ancient bell-founders. Bells have been cast here for over 1000 years and the Marinelli Foundry, chief bell-founder to the Vatican City, is steeped in traditions passed down from father to son.
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Agnone also lays claim to the most important ancient Molise document: the ‘Oscan Table’, dating from the 3rd century BC (the original is in the British Museum) testifies that metal casting took place here for more than two thousand years ago. Agnone’s small centre boasts an incredible 14 churches, mostly Romanesque but closed to visitors. The town has little more to
offer, except La Cremeria, the confectioner’s where you can find the best sweets in Molise. There are many other interesting towns in Isernia such as Pietrabbondante, famous for its Samnite theatre.Isernia: The most interesting site in the region is the abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno. A few kilometres from Isernia, this ancient monastery has lost much of its charm due to earthquakes and Saracen raids.
The church dates back to 1800, but on the other bank of the Volturno lie the ruins of the old monastery, built in the 6th century and the crypt of Epifanio with unique medieval frescoes. In front of the church there is an impressive medieval arcade. If you want to visit the ruins you have to book three day in advance.
Agnone also lays claim to the most important ancient Molise document: the ‘Oscan Table’, dating from the 3rd century BC (the original is in the British Museum) testifies that metal casting took place here for more than two thousand years ago. Culture and old traditions
Molise is the perfect place to see how life was lived centuries ago in the south of Italy. There are old traditions such as the Ndocciata (huge bonfires on Christmas Eve), or the race of the oxen of Portocannone (the winning cart carries the saint’s statue).
Molise still enjoys many customs which have now disappeared in the big cities.
Every Sunday the restaurants fill up with large family groups for Sunday lunch: from the grandfather to the grandson, everyone eats without interruption for hours. The Molise cuisine is very good, but it’s never-ending! Fish, fresh tuna and lobsters, cheeses such as caciocavallo, the lamb typical of high Molise and, last but not least, pizza (Campobasso is only a few kilometres from Naples).
In many restaurants the waiters won't stop bringing you food unless you tell them to!
Getting there...
The best way to travel in Molise is by car.
There’s no airport in the region (the nearest is Pescara), and the train services little of the country.
You can easily reach Molise from the A14 Adriatic motorway. Exit at Vasto Sud and then take the SS 650to Isernia.
This article was originally published in the print edition of Italy Magazine
