The Italian fashion world has been rapped for hypocrisy after failing to find space for a show of plus-size clothes in this month's Milan fashion week.
The accusation came from Francesco Casile, the organizer of Plusize, a trade fair for producers of clothes for big people which overlaps with Milan women's fashion week.
Casile suggested the rejection belies the industry's claims to be committed to fighting the media message that ultra-thin is beautiful - considered a major cause of anorexia.
The industry recently launched a new anti-anorexia code of conduct to much fanfare, which banned extremely thin models from the catwalk.
"We would have liked to have been present on the first day of Milan Fashion Week with some of the brands that are on show at our fair," said Casile. "It would have given out an important signal".
The Italian National Fashion Chamber (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), which organizes Milan Fashion Week, said the request to take part was rejected simply because it was presented too late.
Casile claims Plusize's application was sent in December, but the Fashion Chamber says it did not receive it until mid-January. The event takes place February 17-25.
"You cannot say we preclude anyone, because we were the first to play host to plus-size clothes, with brands like Elena Miro'," said Fashion Chamber Chief Mario Boselli.
"The application arrived too late and we could not improvise a show featuring lots of different brands together.
"But we don't exclude anyone and we will find room for a plus-size show on the September programme if we start discussions in May or June".
Despite Boselli's denials, some designers may have been uncomfortable about sharing a platform with fashion for the overweight.
Some might even claim that it is tantamount to replacing one negative image of womanhood with another, as obesity is linked to a range of health problems.
Italy's code of conduct banning ultra-thin models was drafted in the wake of the tragic death of an anorexic Brazilian model.
Unlike recent anti-anorexia measures adopted in Spain, where excessively skinny models have been legally banned from catwalks, nothing will be enforced by law.
By signing the code, stylists, agencies, photographers and agents will promise to see that the rules are observed, each in their own corner of the industry.
A key requirement is that models must have a body mass index of at least 18.5, slightly above the figure laid down by the World Health Organization as marking the line between 'normal' and 'underweight'.
Models must also be at least 16 years old.
"Fashion should be a positive example of health, as well as of beauty and elegance," said Tiziana Maiolo, a Milanese councillor involved in the code's preparation.
Several studies have shown that fashion and media portrayals of an overly thin ideal put pressure on young women and have contributed to rising eating-disorder rates.
Some three million Italians or 5% of the population suffer from such disorders, the vast majority of them women.
According to recent statistics, 8-10% of teenage girls and almost 1% of teenage boys suffer from anorexia or bulimia or both.
