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Ciao a tutti!
Hands up if you have ever dreamed of living in a castle in Italy. I did as a child—and still do now. But while this for me remains very much a dream, it looks like others are working hard to make it come true.
 According to a report by an Italian property website, demand for castles in the Bel Paese is growing fast, even though we are still in the throes of the economic downturn. Buyers are chiefly British and Russians who want to live in a slice of Italian history. And Italy certainly offers enough delicious properties to whet their appetite. A quick glance at the Italymag.co.uk listings reveals a crop of battlements, crenellated towers, frescoed walls and coffered ceilings to choose from. Even better, not all of these homes are prohibitively expensive. Sure, a huge neo-Gothic castle in the heart of Umbria will set you back nearly €5m. But an atmospheric apartment in a 17th century castle conversion can cost as little as €270,000.
 Alas, my favourite castle is not for sale. Castello Caetani, in the medieval town of Sermoneta, dates back to the 13th century when the Annibaldi family built a fortress from which to rule the area on behalf of the Holy See. Later, Pope Boniface VIII - Dante's nemesis and a crafty strategist - realised the vital importance of the castle and bought it from the impoverished Annibaldis.
For a long time, the castle remained in the hands of the Caetani family, to which Boniface VIII belonged, and it was under their ownership that it became a magnificent castle enriched by Renaissance frescoes. At least until Alexander VI Borgia took it away from them and part destroyed it. But the sudden change in fortunes so typical of Italy at the time meant that the castle was soon restored to the Caetani and it remained in the family's hands until 1977,when it passed in the hands of a foundation created by the last scion, Princess Lelia. Today, it has become an educational and exhibition centre, but many of its rooms (including a perfectly preserved 16th century bedroom) are open to the public, and well worth a visit.
 Even better, on some special dates you can combine the visit of Castello Caetani with a tour of the nearby Ninfa gardens, which are also owned by the same family. The gardens have deep roots - in Roman times, the Ninfa parkland was the backdrop for a temple dedicated to the Naiad nymphs - but their landscaping history starts at the beginning of the 20th century, when Duchess Ada Bootle Wilbraham and her two sons, Gelasio and Roffredo Caetani, turned it into a sinuous English garden. Later, Roffredo's wife, Marguerite Chapin, and, most of all, their daughter, Lelia, built on this early work, turning Ninfa into what author and gardener Charles Quest-Ritson calls "the most romantic garden in the world," a masterpiece of roses, magnolias, bamboos and maple trees strewn with grottoes and authentic ruins.
Quest-Ritson has recently published a fascinating book on Ninfa, which retraces the garden's history and evolution over time. It makes for a fascinating read and not just for keen gardeners - it gives a wonderful insight into one of Italy's most notable families and their consuming passion for all things verdant. Oh and the pictures of Ninfa will make you want to hop on a plane and arrange a visit soonest.
As every gardener knows, though, there is a season for everything, including visiting Ninfa, which is only open on a handful of selected dates every year. The same seasonality also applies to farming, as Katia Calandra reminds us in life in a nostalgia - filled piece that recalls Italy’s agricultural rhythms, food and traditions in the times before technology hit the fields. You can read it (or hear it) in Italian to brush up on your language.
Buona settimana.
Carla Passino
Editor
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Borgo Belvederi is a magnificent and secluded ancient hamlet, nestled on top of a green hill about 2 miles from the city of Camerino, in Le Marche.
