Ciao a tutti!
Have you ever been to the Santa Chiara monastery in Naples? It is a place of extraordinary beauty where the austere buildings of the nunnery contrast sharply with the riot of colours and scents - roses, lemons, oranges - of the cloister garden. What makes the monastery really special, however, are the hundreds of 18th century majolica tiles that decorate the garden pillars and benches. Painted in a vibrant palette of yellow, orange and green, they recreate hunting scenes, country dances and even Carnival revels, bringing a slice of the world to the peaceful seclusion of the cloister.
The majolica art is a byproduct of medieval trade. Although Italy had a long established pottery-making tradition, the craft took new life in the 14th and 15th centuries, when new techniques were imported from the Arab world via the island of Majorca (hence the name majolica bestowed on the new ceramics). Naples in the South and Faenza in the North became the most lively production centres, but majolica was popular across most of Italy, and it remains to this day. Writer Christine Webb has now embarked on a journey to find the best places to learn about and purchase majolica ceramics. In the first article of a two-part series, she explains what majolica is, how it is made and how to recognize a good quality piece. The second part, which will be published next week, will reveal the best ceramic museums, workshops and potteries.
Ceramics, together with many other traditional Italian products, will be up for sale in Siena's medieval market this coming Saturday. Seven hundred years ago, the city's constitution was first translated from Latin into volgare (that is, every day Italian), allowing the common people to understand their rights and duties. Now Siena is celebrating the event with an open-air market, medieval-style games and street entertainment.
The market stalls, which will be situated on the left hand side of Piazza del Campo, just as they would have been 700 years ago, will sell anything from cheese, wine and oil to ceramics, paper and wrought iron pieces. Many master craftsmen will also display their bookbinding, weaving and furniture restoration skills. If you are in Tuscany this weekend, try and make it to Siena, because the market is really worth visiting.
About an hour away from Siena is another Tuscan town you should see: Volterra. Recently thrust into the international limelight by Stephanie Meyer's Twilight series, Volterra has many other claims to literary and historic fame. It was an important Etruscan settlement, which later became a Roman town and a thriving medieval city. Part of the city walls still date from the Etruscan days, the theatre was built by the Romans and its fortress, homes and churches are fascinating examples of medieval architecture.
The countryside outside Volterra is just as attractive - think thickly wooded slopes, sinuous hills covered with cypresses, olive groves and vineyards, and magical rocky outcrops rising above deep valleys crisscrossed by streams and rivers.
It is a beautiful place to live, and it just so happens that a lovely property has come up for sale in the area. What once was an old watermill has been turned into an atmospheric home that blends original details, such as archways, exposed bricks and stones, with contemporary style (open plan rooms, glass flooring, fully fitted kitchen). Outside, a large private garden has an alfresco dining area, a large swimming pool, and far-reaching views of the Tuscan countryside. The asking price is hardly cheap at €1.395m, but the house is large enough to accommodate more than one family, thus potentially spreading the cost.
Wherever you buy your Italian home, though, make sure it is close to a friendly "bar". A good café is invaluable when you are settling into your new life in Italy, as our columnist Pat Eggleton experienced first hand. When she arrived to Modica, a stranger with no local ties, she soon found that lunch at her nearby bar, L'Altro Posto, was a way of seeing people and connecting with her new world. After all, as Eggleton says, "in Italy, show interest in the language, food and culture and you will soon have many friends".
Buona settimana.
Carla Passino
Editor
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