HEAVENLY COFFEE

Gala Placidia Image
05/24/2011 - 03:52

We are just back from a n enjoyable week in Rome and I must mention the great coffee we had at Piazza Sant'Eustachio, a sort of "sanctuary" for all coffee lovers. Nothing can compare to their "grand caffe" and it is a good idea to go across the square to the church to thank the saint for such a heavenly experience. I found out that I am not the only one sharing this opinion http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2005/09/espresso-di-rom/; however, we saw very few "tourists" sipping their coffee with reverence and delight. A real cardinal sin!On the other hand, the historic Caffe di Simo on Lucca's Via Fillungo must have changed hands... The coffee is plain average, the place has lost its charm and the waitresses are wearing the ugliest uniforms anyone can imagine. What a loss!

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In reply to by sprostoni

Thanks, Sprostoni. I should add that my dear husband bought some coffee at Sant' Eustachio and tried really hard to copy the one we had there... the result was not very satisfactory. I think it is very difficult to duplicate. It smells good, though.....

The best coffee we have had in Italy with out a doubt is in Napoli. I think virtually every Cafe we visited there served excellent coffee; and the proffered blend being Kimbo. Don't forget that Lucca is a tourist hot spot so repeat custom isn't high on establishments list. Best to go to a small local coffee shop that has a loyal following near the walls not one in Via Fillungo..

In reply to by Flip

My 'house coffee' has been Kimbo "Black" for aeons. I would stock up on it whenever it came on 'special offer', and was delighted to get 250g for €1,99. So, my coffee supply had run out, and what price did I see - €3.19 for 250g. I'm sorry, that is just TOO expensive to contemplate, so I bought a pack of the Coop own brand espresso casa at €1,63 (plus a pack of Kimbo black in case the 'own brand' was undrinkable). Well, the Coop brand was certainly drinkable, and I would say a great deal less than €1,60 "worse" than the Kimbo (the difference in price benig about €1,60). So that was ten days ago, and the coffee stock situation was gettnig low - blow me if the Coop own brand hasn't gone above the €2,00 mark! I hear that in the commodities market coffee is 'on a run' - the crack is that this is down to 'speculators' - I dunno. But, do you know what unexpected consequences this has on the Italian economy? I'll tell you. It costs me 80 cents to drink a coffee in a bar.  I decide that, because it now costs me 60% more to make DIY coffee at home (due, possibly, to speculators) I will simply not buy coffee in bars, and if I drink two less coffees in a bar I can pay the extra €1,60 for the pack of coffee in the supermarket. This is all complete madness - the bar cannot up the cost of an espresso because the regione has 'fixed' it: does this mean they are still able to source coffee beans at the 'old price'? I doubt it.  They are not making as much profit as they did before on coffee, and people like me are nipping in to buy fags and not buying the coffee. Buying the coffee was a social thing - it used to be almost obligatory (because just nipping in for fags was a bit rude) - but everyody can cope with 'rude' when they have the piss taken out of them by the price asked for  supermarket coffee. Rant over - maybe it is called globalisation. But when your favourite bar closes the shutters finally, and there is nowhere for the ancients to socialise - it is something to regret, I think.

Definitely, we will have to find another coffee shop in Lucca, Flip. De Simo used to serve an excellent one, only a year ago. Yes, there were tourists, but the place also had a special atmosphere which is also gone. A great pity!

You are right, Phillide, coffee drinking at the bar is part of social interacting in Italy and it would be a tragedy if this custom disappears. You can still drink coffee at 80c a cup in many Italian bars; however, in others, prices are going up. Coffee has increased its price in world markets and I would say that it is all due to world speculation. I also doubt very much that any part of these increases will end up in the pockets of coffee farmers in Colombia, Costa Rica, Kenya or New Guinea...