Chef Sara Levi on Soil Regeneration, Serving Offal to Americans, and the Influence of Alice Waters

Every day is an exercise in creativity for the chefs of the Rome Sustainable Food Project, whether they’re dreaming up ways to get diners to eat beef heart or stuck cooking cabbage for the hundredth time because it’s what’s in season. Sustainable, organic, regenerative, farm-to-table; whatever way you spin it — or certify it — this sustainable model of cooking and sourcing food creates strict confines for what you can buy and when.

But this is one group that doesn’t find