Chitarrina or Fedelini with Tuna Ragù

A pasta dish featuring a canned tuna sauce may not sound especially celebratory, let alone worthy of Christmas Eve dinner. But this is the dish my Abruzzese mom made every year as part of our seafood feast, and it is indeed special—if prepared properly. The robustly flavored sauce relies on good pantry ingredients: the best-tinned tuna and anchovies you can procure, excellent capers, and high-quality canned (or home-canned) tomatoes. Though you would swear it has been simmering f