Zuppa di Fagioli e Zucca: Squash and Cannellini Bean Soup

Whenever I’m planning a trip to Rome, I try to do my due diligence, which is to say, I hit up friends and check my favorite travel blogs for restaurant recommendations, and then make a list of places I’d like to visit for lunch or dinner. But I always leave room for serendipity. Some of the best meals or dishes I’ve enjoyed in the Eternal City have been at places I’ve happened upon while walking around, exploring a new (to me) neighborhood.

One afternoon a few years ago, m